Planning to frame and finish a wall
Building a wall is a repeat of a few simple parts: a bottom plate, a top plate and studs between them at a fixed spacing. The work that decides the quality of the finished wall is the layout (square, plumb and straight), the blocking where things will hang, and the drywall finishing.
This planner covers a non-load-bearing partition wall. A load-bearing wall carries the weight of the structure above and needs a plan, a permit and usually an engineer.
Step 1: Lay out the wall
Mark the position of the wall on the floor and the ceiling, and use a plumb line or a laser to transfer it. Check the room is square using the diagonals. Plan the door openings with rough openings a little larger than the door frame.
Step 2: Count the studs and plates
Studs are usually spaced 16 inches on center (24 inches in some places), with extra studs at corners, ends and openings. The bottom plate and two top plates run the full length. Frame the wall on the floor, then tip it up and fix it.
Step 3: Rough-in electrical and plumbing
Wires and pipes go in before the drywall, with boxes at the right heights. Electrical work needs a permit in most places and is best done or checked by a licensed electrician. Add blocking where cabinets, grab bars and shelves will be fixed.
Step 4: Hang the drywall
Drywall is hung with the long edges across the studs and the joints staggered. Count the sheets from the area plus waste, and the screws, tape and compound from the sheet count. Corners and ceilings take more care than flat walls.
Step 5: Finish, light and paint
Joint compound is applied in three thin coats, sanded between. Prime before you paint. Lighting is easier to plan before the ceiling closes, and recessed lights need to be spaced for even light.
Before you start
- Confirm the wall is not load-bearing, or get a plan and an engineer.
- The permit for new walls, electrical and plumbing work.
- A stud finder and a detector for cables and pipes before you fix anything.
- Fire-blocking and sound-insulation requirements if they apply.
- Dust control: plan where the sanding dust goes.
Mistakes that cost people money
- Framing a wall that is not plumb or not straight, which shows through the drywall.
- Forgetting blocking, then having nothing solid to fix to.
- Too much joint compound in one coat, which cracks and takes ages to sand.
- Hanging drywall before the electrical inspection.
- Tipping up a wall that is too tight, damaging the ceiling.
Frequently asked questions
How far apart should wall studs be?
Sixteen inches on center is the standard spacing, and 24 inches is used for some non-load-bearing walls and with larger lumber. Check your local code.
How many studs do I need for a wall?
About one for every 16 inches of wall, plus the end studs, the doubled studs at corners and openings, and a few spares. The wall framing calculator counts them.
How many sheets of drywall do I need?
Divide the wall area by 32 square feet per 4 × 8 sheet and add about 10% for waste. The drywall calculator also counts screws, tape and compound.
Do I need a permit to build a wall?
Often yes if it changes the layout, and especially if it includes electrical or plumbing work. Ask your building department.
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Estimates only. Quantities depend on your materials, site and supplier. Follow local building codes for anything structural, and have a licensed professional do or check electrical, gas and structural work.