Planning a driveway

A driveway carries more weight than a patio, so the base matters more than the surface. A block-paved drive is built on a deep, compacted sub-base with a thin laying course of sand, and a gravel drive on a sub-base with a membrane and stabilising grids. The edging holds it all in. Rules on drainage also apply, because a hard front garden sends water into the road.

This planner starts with the rules, then moves to the ground, the base and the surface.

Step 1: Check the rules and the drainage

Planning permission is needed to pave more than 5 square metres of a front garden with a surface that does not let water drain through, unless the water runs to a lawn or a border. A dropped kerb needs permission from the council, and it is an offence to drive over the pavement without one. Choose permeable block paving or gravel, or drain to a soakaway.

Step 2: Dig out and set the falls

Excavate to the depth of the sub-base, the laying course and the blocks, and take away soft ground. Plan the falls so that water runs away from the house and the garage, and not out into the road. Check for services before you dig.

Step 3: Build the sub-base

MOT Type 1 stone in layers, compacted with a plate compactor, usually 150 mm or more for a drive, and deeper over soft ground. A geotextile membrane on soft ground stops the stone sinking.

Step 4: Block paving: bed, edge and lay

Edge restraints go in first, set in concrete. A laying course of about 30 to 50 mm of sharp sand is screeded level, and the blocks are laid in a pattern from a straight edge, cut to fit at the ends, then compacted and swept with kiln-dried jointing sand. Herringbone gives the best grip for vehicles.

Step 5: Or a gravel drive

A gravel drive is cheaper and drains well. It needs the sub-base, a weed membrane, gravel-holding grids to stop the stones moving and ruts forming, and a layer of 20 mm gravel about 40 mm deep. Edging stops the stones escaping.

Before you start

  • Planning rules for the front garden and the drop kerb, from your council.
  • Where the rainwater will go, and a soakaway or permeable surface if you need one.
  • The position of drains and services, and access for lorries.
  • The weight of vehicles: vans and caravans need a deeper base.
  • The days of dry weather needed for laying.

Mistakes that cost people money

  • A sub-base that is thin or uncompacted.
  • Paving over a front garden with a non-porous surface and no drainage plan.
  • No edge restraints, so the blocks spread at the sides.
  • A laying course that is too thick, or not screeded level.
  • Sweeping in ordinary sand instead of kiln-dried jointing sand.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need planning permission for a new drive?

Often only if you pave more than 5 square metres of the front garden with a non-porous surface, or if you need a dropped kerb. Permeable surfaces or drainage to a lawn avoid the first. Ask your council.

How deep should the sub-base be?

About 150 mm of compacted MOT Type 1 is the usual minimum for a domestic drive, and more over soft ground or for heavy vehicles.

How thick should the laying course be?

About 30 to 50 mm of sharp sand, screeded level. Too much sand makes the blocks move.

How much gravel is needed for a drive?

A layer about 40 mm deep of 20 mm gravel over grids is common. The gravel driveway calculator gives the tonnes.

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Tools & materials for this project

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Estimates only. Quantities depend on your materials, site and supplier. Check the Building Regulations and any planning rules for anything structural or close to a boundary, and use a registered electrician or gas engineer for that work.