Planning a new lawn and garden beds
Lawns and beds fail for the same reason: poor soil and poor preparation. The seed, sod, plants and mulch are the cheap and quick part. Grading the ground, building the soil and watering at the right time decide whether it thrives. Most quantities are volumes or areas, so they are easy to work out once you know the area and the depth.
This planner starts with the ground, then covers the lawn, the beds and the care that keeps them going.
Step 1: Measure the area and grade the ground
Measure each lawn and bed as simple shapes and add them up. Grade the ground to fall gently away from the house, and fill low spots. Call 811 before digging deeper than a few inches. If you are bringing in or taking away soil, work out the volumes first.
Step 2: Build the soil
Topsoil goes on in a layer of 4 to 6 inches for a new lawn, and 6 to 12 inches in a new bed. Test the soil if you can, and work in compost before planting. Order topsoil by the cubic yard and convert to tons if the supplier sells it by weight.
Step 3: Seed or sod the lawn
Seed is cheaper and gives a wider choice of grasses; sod gives an instant lawn and is easier to keep alive in a hurry. Seed in the right season for your grass: early fall is best for cool-season grasses in most places. Sod goes down within a day of delivery.
Step 4: Plant and mulch the beds
Space plants by their mature size, not their size in the pot. Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep keeps weeds down and holds moisture, but keep it away from the stems and trunks. Raised beds need a mix of soil and compost, ordered by the cubic yard.
Step 5: Feed, water and protect
Water new seed lightly and often until it sprouts, then deeply and less often. Feed the lawn by the area, following the bag. If you treat weeds or pests, mix sprays at the label rate and never more.
Step 6: Edge, path and finish
Edging keeps lawn, mulch and gravel apart. Decorative rock goes over landscape fabric, and a path of pavers or gravel gives access to the beds in wet weather.
Before you start
- The season: seeding and sodding have their best weeks.
- Call 811 before digging.
- Water access and a plan for the first weeks of watering.
- A soil test if you can, to learn the pH and nutrients.
- Rules on watering and fertilizer in your area.
Mistakes that cost people money
- Laying seed or sod on compacted, unbroken ground.
- Too little topsoil, so the roots cannot grow.
- Mulch piled against tree trunks and stems.
- Watering for a few minutes every day, which keeps roots shallow.
- Spraying weed killer or pesticide stronger than the label rate.
Frequently asked questions
How much topsoil do I need for a new lawn?
Usually a 4 to 6 inch layer over the area. The topsoil calculator turns the area and depth into cubic yards.
Is it better to use seed or sod?
Seed is cheaper, with a wider choice of grasses and a longer wait. Sod gives an instant lawn at a higher cost and needs prompt watering.
How deep should mulch be?
Two to three inches is usual. Deeper mulch can smother roots, and mulch against stems and trunks can rot them.
How often should I water a new lawn?
Lightly and often at first, while the seed sprouts, then deeper and less often. The watering calculator estimates the time for your sprinkler.
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Tools & materials for this project
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Estimates only. Quantities depend on your materials, site and supplier. Follow local building codes for anything structural, and have a licensed professional do or check electrical, gas and structural work.